Feature 2

Oh sure, people tried their best to woo me over
to a dark brew or a pale ale. “You just need
to try Brand X or Brand Y,” they’d say. But
through it all, my taste buds refused to tingle
and my palate remained unimpressed . . .
until lately, that is.
All the positive buzz about beer is getting
hard to ignore. A few things in particular have recently piqued my
attention: Beer has gone ultra chic, amazing health benefits are being
touted, and there is an evident boom in the craft/micro brewery
market. Could it be that developing an appreciation for beer might
swiftly join together three of my favourite things: staying healthy,
supporting the local food movement, and attempting to increase my
coolness quotient? I suddenly feel maybe I’ve misjudged beer all this
time, and it just might again deserve “the old college try,” as they say.
So, leaving my wine bottles uncorked, I head out on a mission of
frothy knowledge.
It’s true, the beverage associated with beer bellies, foolhardy frosh
mischief, and the never-flattering dual beer hat with built-in straws,
has long suffered from an image problem. It would seem to the casual
observer that somewhere between “mr. blue collar everyman” and
“legion of bikini-clad, buxom babes,” there should lie an untapped
area of golden marketing potential. In a world where beer is the oldest
and most consumed alcoholic drink, and the most popular beverage
after water and tea (take that, wine!), its appeal should not be limited
to outdated, overused stereotypes.
Lucky for the suds, North America is clearly embracing a new
demographic of beer drinkers. It’s a thriving group with sophisticated
palates and discerning tastes, and most of them are being lured by the
unique, quality product offered by emerging craft and micro breweries.
These beers, made by small, independent producers using traditional
methods, are only brewed from the finest, natural ingredients—barley
and wheat malts, select hops, filtered water and unique yeast strains,
without a trace of nasty preservatives—thereby elegantly redefining
what people have come to expect in a beer. Eric Martin, owner of
the Niagara Falls-based craft brewery, Taps Brewing Company, points
out, “As people come in and try our products they find there is more
to beer than mass-produced fizzy corn water. We bring out the natural
goodness of the ingredients to make delicious beers that suit different
palates.” And as more people “trade up” from those mass produced
versions, the dedication of the craft-inspired brewmaster to bring out
the best in this drink is really starting to be appreciated.
Once people try a new and interesting brew that embodies a
passion for the real craft of beer making, there is an excitement for
what is possible and plenty of variety to hold one’s attention. For the
foodie, special ales, lagers, and stouts are now found alongside wine
as recommended pairings to complement sophisticated cuisine in fine
eateries. It is now also commonplace to find menu items incorporating
a unique, craft beer as that “special ingredient” in a flavourful
barbecue sauce, spicy chili, or decadent chocolate cake. Beer isn’t just
for battering your fish anymore. Check out the ontariocraftbrewers.
com recipe section for some truly inventive ideas!
Spurred on by the superior taste offered through smaller breweries,
there is a cult following of immense proportions developing
as these types of beers become part of a person’s trendy image and
lifestyle, similar to an all-consuming commitment to a certain brand
of clothing, computer, or car. It seems that a variety or style of beer
greatly enjoyed is yet another distinctive element worthy of adding to
a profile page. Simply searching the key words “craft beer” on Facebook
or Twitter is proof positive of this evolving devotion. And if you
should ever find yourself longing for some face-to-face social media,
you can even join other craft beer fans by travelling to the various
festivals around North America that celebrate this movement and all
that this growing culture offers.
This unabashed enthusiasm has drawn comparisons from food and
wine experts to the sort of renaissance that happened in the wine
sector about 25 years ago. At that time, when a bottle of Baby Duck
would have been considered the height of chic, but is now considered
gauche by most for its obvious lack of panache, many wine consumers
lacked a true appreciation for the desirable qualities that distinguish
a great wine. Fast-forward a quarter century. Through clever wine
marketing, greater selection, and increased public knowledge, it seems
you can’t spin a bottle in our current culture without landing on a
self-described “wine aficionado.” As the number of craft breweries
continues to multiply along with the dedicated fervour of devotees,
David Lipman, publisher of Beer and Brewer Magazine, remarks, “Beer
is the new wine. We’re seeing a huge growth in craft brewing because
consumers are becoming more educated and they’re recognizing there
are beers with flavour to them.”
Specifically, the Niagara region is wisely building on the tourism
already present with its wine industry and is attempting to also
make it a location synonymous for craft brewing expertise. Starting
in September 2010, Niagara College is answering a demand in the
industry to provide skilled professionals in the art of craft brewing. By
creating a two-year diploma in Brewmaster and Brewery Operations
Management, the school will work in partnership with the Ontario
Craft Brewers Association and will be the first in Canada to provide
this level of training.
Corresponding with the rise in interest in craft brewing are the well
documented health benefits of brewed beverages. It seems we mostly
hear about the blessings of wine, but beer is clearly comparable, if not
superior in some respects. For example, a molecule named resveratrol
found in the skin of grapes, has gained much attention recently for
its ability to protect arteries from cholesterol blockages. Research now
shows, however, that the key component to this particular protection
is the alcohol content itself, and is not specific to one type of
beverage. Likewise, moderate alcohol consumption is being found to
lower dementia risks and notably slow the progression of rheumatoid
arthritis, because of its ability to reduce inflammation in the body,
according to Dr. Axel Finckh at the University of Geneva.
Amazingly, beer is actually more nutrient-rich than wine, with
preservative-free craft and micro versions being the least processed
and most beneficial. Beer naturally contains plentiful amounts of
soluble fibre, B vitamins (particularly folate from yeast extract, important
for creating and maintaining new cells), and a broad range of
antioxidants.

(per serving) than beer, there is still controversy as to whether they are
effectively absorbed by the body,” says Dr. Charlie Bamforth, from the
University of California at Davis.
Beer is also one of the richest sources of the mineral silicon, since
the entire husk of grain is used in its processing. For women, this
factor is especially important. It has long been understood that
increasing silicon in the diet helps counter the severe bone loss associated
with osteoporosis, but what was not clear was whether it could be
effectively absorbed by the body. “Now we have confirmed that beer is
a readily bio-available source of silicon,” reports Dr. Jonathan Powell,
a U.K. medical researcher. “Unlike some other high-silicon foods, (we
now know) the silicon in beer is readily absorbed because it exists as
soluble silicate.” Exciting news to those looking for a way to increase
their silicon levels for health reasons!
Furthermore, experts say it’s not fair blaming beer for that dreaded
beer belly. Since the caloric value is similar in many types of alcohol, it
is rather the occurrence of a sedentary lifestyle and repeated consumption
of excess calories that lead to the unhealthy condition. Listen to
that wise person who once said, “everything in moderation.” If you
are incorporating beer to take advantage of the health benefits, it’s
sound advice to stick to a maximum of two regular strength glasses
daily. Also, the frequency has been proven to be as relevant as the
quantity, so don’t think you can save your allocation for an “intoxicating”
weekend—that is called binging and a definite no-no!
Perhaps most important, supporting small, independent brewers
who are producing and distributing their products in the community
is the perfect way to demonstrate the locavore in you. We are
all looking for ways to help our local community remain a strong,
diverse, interesting area to live and visit; and the businesses that exist
in these tough economic times need our patronage more than ever.
For residents of the Niagara region looking to champion the “little
guy,” this is both easy to accomplish, and easy on the conscience.
In addition to sourcing their beer ingredients locally when possible,
these breweries are mindful to “complete the circle” by using wholesome
menu ingredients found locally and supplied fresh. It’s a reciprocal
relationship between brewery and community within this niche market
that is genuinely important and can benefit both parties. The familyowned
Taps Brewing Company is really proud to support the Niagara
region and looks for inventive ways to make this happen. They take their
involvement in the community very seriously because it provides a level
of connectedness that has been lost in big business, and it is far too valuable
a commodity to pass up.
“Being a small, independent brewer allows us
the flexibility to work on new beers and get
direct feedback from our customers about
them. We have a Growler Club where members
get to try a new beer each month. This allows
our brewmaster to try new recipes and our
customers to let me know directly what they
like,” says Eric Martin. You certainly won’t
find this level of commitment to your taste
buds at a faceless, soul-free, mega-brewery.
It’s this type of operational adaptability
found in a smaller business model that can
easily respond to what is distinctive and
flavourful rather than just bowing to mass
appeal. Craft brewers can quickly incorporate
special ingredients that might be experimental
or include an element to reflect the
region where they are located. Local fruits,
honey, hemp, maple syrup—any ingredient is
possible to produce an exclusive, unexpected
flavour or aroma. St. Catharines’ Merchant Ale
House, located in the heart of the city, offers
a refreshing Strawberry Blonde Fruit Ale on
tap year round, as well as a popular Headless
Horseman Pumpkin Ale with cinnamon and
nutmeg for an inspired seasonal flair.
Coupled with intriguing ingredients, craft
breweries are building their brands with a tip
of their hats to the local area. Niagara’s Best
has developed a great marketing angle by cleverly
naming their brews with region-appropriate
historic flair: General Brock, Daredevil,
Border, Logger, and Drummond Hill, after
the Battle of Lundy’s Lane infamous haunted
cemetery, all grace their wide beer selection.
Making an effort to highlight where craft
beers are produced can help boost the area as
an elite destination for the followers of this
developing trend.
With the Niagara region already highly
regarded as a food and wine hot spot, it makes
sense to play our strong suit and market
a locale that boasts desirable educational
programs entwined with a total epicurean lifestyle.
Continuing to attract connoisseurs and
enthusiasts who appreciate the finer things in
life will be a vital component to our region’s
ongoing success.
Happily, I now realize that when it comes
to beer, I have been drunk with my own ignorance
and under the influence of a sad lack of
knowledge.
So, next time, raise a pint for me too!
I’ll take a creamy, smooth pale ale with just
a hint of citrus. . .
Cheers! NM
Christine Darragh is a Niagara based writer and
researcher who contributes to various magazines
and publications. With over 10 years of business/
corporate writing experience, she is thankful
the English degree proved worthwhile and now
joyfully writes about what truly interests her.


